Thursday, May 29, 2008

Charles University's global reach

Our last heavy day in the Czech Republic was spent at Charles University in Prague. We had a jam-packed and fascinating day looking at this very old, complex, and expanding institution.

Charles University was founded in 1348 by King Charles. They presently have over 40,000 students and maintain over 1,000 global partnerships with other universities around the world. Charles is very typical of old European universities in the autonomy that each academic department has over its affairs. The departments are so strong that institutional decisions have to be made at the separate college levels and coordination across the colleges may or may not be forthcoming. On the other hand, they foster innovative partnerships with universities that support student, faculty, and staff exchanges and even allow for joint degrees all the way up to, and including, the Ph.D.

Part of our experience at Charles was visiting the Carolinum, the most historic and central building of a campus spread throughout the city. The picture above is of the courtyard of the Carolinum. We also saw the graduation hall, the robes, and degrees for graduates (picture to right). The ominous picture is of King George and the rest of the diploma is beautiful.

We ate in a student dining hall where I had a fascinating conversation with a young woman studying theology who now works on the Charles staff. She is a Jewish student and is going to study both Judaism and Islam during her master's work. She is pursuing this as preparation to work with international students who number around 4,000 each year. I was amazed at the potential connection between theology and preparation to work with international students. Many of my experiences have revealed that one of the most difficult differences for students to negotiate is religion. The lack of understanding of faith and the stereotypes about the many perspectives that students hold are frequently divisive. This young woman's preparation in theology may be a perfect match for international education.

The European tour has been fascinating for so many reasons. One of the things that is so different about this trip is that I really had the chance to compare the various forms of education emerging through the Bologna process. European higher education is changing and will change even more in the coming years. These changes will impact higher education in the U.S.A., the far east, the Arabian Gulf, and elsewhere. Keeping an eye on all these changes will be essential for those institutions that seek to maintain global status.

This was my last picture from Prague - this was taken in the late evening in the old square in the center of the city. As I strolled through the square with so many others around me, I wished so much that my family had been with me. There will be other times...

Tuesday, May 27, 2008

Prague - saved from the devastation

Prague has stood for almost 800 years as one of the great capitols of Europe. At one time it was third only to Rome and Paris in size and it clearly had vast opportunity as one of the Hapsburg dynasty's most wealthy territories. It was spared major damage during the World and other wars because somehow it managed to avoid violent take-overs, even when various other armies, rulers, and dictators took it over from time to time.

We had a fascinating tour guide who considered himself Palestine, even though born and living in Prague. His parents were political refugees from Palestine from the 1940s and 1950s. He wasn't bitter about this but his status as a person whose identity is Palestinian definitely influenced comments that he made. One particular point that he made that startled me was that he said that the Czechs have always been willing to give in to others, thus saving their art and architecture, but perhaps sacrificing their principles and self-determination. This was a fascinating point that I will continue to explore.

The most prominent point in all of Prague is the Palace on the hill above the city, one that includes St. Vitus' Cathedral. The majority of the architecture in the city is either Baroque or Art Neuvo (in the case of St. Wenceslas' square). By contrast, St. Vitus Cathedral is Gothic (interior view to left) and contains many beautiful windows and historical elements. Included in the historical elements are the burial sarcophigi of all the former rulers of the area presently occupied by the Czech Republic and a special chapel where "Good King Wenceslas" is buried.

The last thing of the day included finding the music - again. There is lots of music offered in Prague but much of it is light classical music that tourists can attend and think they are actually listening to a substantive classical concert. It's a pretty sad statement that there are so many of these mini-concerts that allow people to go through the motions of attending more challenging concerts. We were lucky that we found a concert of a medium-size orchestra performing works of Smetana and Dvorak (busts pictured to right are of these two composers) that offered a little more creative substance.

Prague is now attracting seven million tourists a year and May is at the height of the season. The crowds were massive but manageable. It was great to discover another fascinating and historic European city. Thank goodness it was saved from destruction, no matter the means. I was able to go to the site of one of the Czech people's greatest moments in coping with and challenging the occupation of other governments. Wenceslas Square was the place where 300,000 people gathered day after day, rallying around Vaclav Havel who lead them in chants of "it's time to go." The result of this "velvet revolution" was the withdrawal of Soviet forces without one military encounter or lost life. This is an amazing story of courage and of positive change without violence.

Rebuilding and relearning in Dresden

The next stop was Dresden, the city that was known as the Florence of the north before Allied forces bombed it at the end of WWII. Dresden was a city built at the height of the Baroque period and every building you see is a flourish of architectural and artistic genius. This is why it was bombed - as a sort of "pay-back" for the bombing of Conventry in England, another area known for its beauty and fine cathedral. The Frauenkirche was a particular target (seen rising above the streets of Dresden as it has been rebuilt) because it was perceived to be one of the most beautiful in all of Europe.

Seeing the amazing work that is underway to rebuild Dresden convinced me that Dresden will be one of the biggest tourism draws in Europe within the next 5-10 years. The other reason we visited Dresden was to stay overnight in student housing sponsored by the Studentenwerk of Dresden and to talk to students and staff who work with it. What an eye-opener. We found a very formal administration committed to serving students through the provision of financial aid, housing, and food. They believe that they have no role as it relates to learning. Student leaders are more or less bargainers for improvement in student conditions, rather than young people engaged in learning how to govern, how to influence their environment, and moving through their collegiate experience in predictable developmental ways.

I was struck by the impact of over forty years under Soviet control that fostered dependence, drudgery, and stifled hope. We were only there for less than twenty-four hours so it may be unfair to judge. However, it's hard not to observe that Dresden, and probably other institutions in a similar state, are in a process of developing capacity to engage more actively and collegially to improve their institutions. The conditions are what they are - it's critical to understand how Dresden got the way it is and what the opportunities of the future might bring.

Sunday, May 25, 2008

Back to Berlin

We visited Trier, Germany, while we were on the western border. I'm now in Berlin, which is another city I visited while in Europe two years ago. I visited on a cold and overcast weekend in November. This weekend is amazingly beautiful, clear, and warm. It's been wonderful to be back, to see places I'd been before and to see new things.

Much of modern Berlin seems to have progressed beyond WWII and the legacy of Hitler. However, there are constant reminders throughout the city of what happened here. We had a wonderful tour guide who was a former German Ambassador to Luxembourg, Colombia, Cuba, and other countries. He was deeply informed about the Berlin of the 1930s and 1940s because he had to live through it. While a Catholic, he is extremely responsive to the story of the Jews who were persecuted and murdered during the Nazi regime. The story of WWII Germany started across the street from our hotel - the Nazi headquarters in 1944 where some of Hitler's own soldiers plotted his assassination. We visited the courtyard where these courageous soldiers were shot to death as a statement of Nazi power. We saw many, many buildings riddled with bullet holes, or left to decay after the war. One of the most powerful moments was at the site of the picture above - a memorial at one of the Jewish Synagogues that was burned during the Nazi persecution. This picture is of a sculpture that portrays the death trains that left Berlin to take the Jews to death camps out of the city. The weight of the train car is borne by the cramped, struggling, and hopeless Jews who were pushed into these cars. This sculpture, different than the Holocaust memorial by the Brandenburg gates, was equally as powerful a statement.

On a more positive note, I pursued my typical "find the music" scramble the instant I arrived in Berlin. The result this time was completely fortuitous, as it usually is with me. I had attempted to get advanced tickets for the Berlin Philharmonic for Saturday night but they were sold out. Strange thing - the Philharmonie Hall's rough caught fire earlier in the week, resulting in the closing of the theatre. The Philharmonic concert was moved to an amphitheatre at the site of the 1936 Berlin Olympics (picture to the left), allowing many more tickets to be sold. I scrambled, along with 10,000 other people to get tickets to what was an amazing performance of Hector Berlioz' Requiem. The ensemble on the stage included the Berlin Philharmonic, the adult chorus, and probably 300-400 in a children's chorus. The evening was comfortable, clear, and incredible. I found my way to the amphitheatre without any difficulty and I joined with these wonderful Berliners in an appreciative performance of a brilliant piece of music conducted by one of the world's best conductors - Claudio Abbado.

I really can't understand how things like this happen to me. It seems that I am constantly in search of great music and every time I set out, it finds me.

New experiences and renewed realizations in Luxembourg

I'm on a "Student Affairs Practice in Europe" tour sponsored by Miami University at present. It's a two-week sweep through central Europe, including Luxembourg, Germany, and the Czech Republic. Returning to Luxembourg was particularly nostalgic for me because it was my first experience with living abroad, a step that eventually attracted me to take the leap to Qatar. Luxembourg is also where I was afforded the time, the broadening experience, and the reflection necessary to write Deeper Learning in Leadership. I owe a lot to my experience in Luxembourg and I will never forget this tiny country.

Speaking of tiny country, one of the realizations I've had on this trip is that Qatar and Luxembourg have a great deal in common. Both are small, with populations hovering around one million total, and with large ex-patriot work forces. Both are at the geographic crossroads of their areas = Europe and the Arabian Gulf. Both are very privileged countries with much in financial resources that they are both attempting to use for the greater good of their citizens and others elsewhere. Both have made a major commitment to higher education enhancement and have started new universities - Universite du Luxembourg and Education City. The synchronous nature of these two countries is more than fascinating and I'm going to see what I can do to connect them to each other. I don't know how that will unfold but I will not fail in bringing them together.

Luxembourg was great and I look forward to continuing my contact with great colleagues there. By the way, the picture above is not where we stayed while in Luxembourg. It is the Vianden Castle that is in northern Luxembourg. It was one of the more prominent castles in this region of Europe and it is now being beautifully restored. You can see that it has a commanding view of the incredible countryside in this area of the world.

Tuesday, May 06, 2008

We have started to reap...


Education City held its first official Senior Convocation last night to an audience of parents, diplomats, and media from around the world. The sentiment of most in the audience was captured in the statement by His Highness Sheikh Hamad Bin Khalifa Al Thani pictured above, "We have started to reap the yield of an ambitious national project." The 122 graduates of VCU-Q design, Cornell med, Texas A&M engineering, and Carnegie Mellon business and computer science celebrated their accomplishment and placed artifacts of their days at Education City in a time capsule to be opened in ten years.

His Highness recognized the essential role of Her Highness Sheikha Mozah as the chair of the Board of Qatar Foundation and the one who has given tirelessly to advance the vision of Education City. The celebration was more about the students whose video reflected on the intensity of their learning and their response to the call for them to be global leaders. The entire evening was a statement about a very visionary little country whose resources have thrust it upon the international stage as a voice of moderation, progressivism, possibility, and hope.

Media coverage of Eduation City's graduations has come in from far and wide. Select articles that I've seen are from St. Petersburg (Russia), The Guardian (UK), and The Independent (UK).

Building bridges - U.S. State Department Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs

I've continued to comment about interesting encounters I have in Qatar. The most recent was meeting Goli Ameri, Assistant Secretary of State for Educational and Cultural Affairs. I received an inquiry from the U.S. Embassy in Qatar asking for an appointment and then found out in preparing for the meeting that it would be with Ms. Ameri, a naturalized citizen from the U.S.A. who immigrated from Iran when she was a teen, served as a U.S. Senator, and recently took the appointment with the State Department. The agenda with Ms. Ameri was quite straight-forward and simple - what partnership opportunities might there be between the State Department and QF.

This is one of those times when it felt great to be a citizen of the U.S.A., working with my own government to do something positive to improve relations around the world. The Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs has a variety of programs that it supports, including the familiar Fulbright Scholarships. The ones of most direct interest to me at this point are the Youth Exchange and Study (YES) and the Gilman Program (student abroad scholarships). Both of these are focused on improving communication and understanding among youth from Arab and Islamic countries and the U.S.A. The YES program funds Arab/Muslim high school students for a year of study in the U.S.A. The Gilman Program funds U.S.A. students to study abroad, particularly in targeted areas - the Arab world is at the top of the list.

The possibility that unfolded in the meeting with Ms. Ameri and her staff is that Qatar Foundation could host a reunion of YES participants from recent years. This is potentially 1,000 students for each of the last several years. The opportunity would be to bring them back together, renew their bonds and learning, and support them as agents of reason and reconciliation - Wow! I'm already trying to figure out how to incorporate this into QF's programs as a peer-to-peer leadership learning initiative.

In addition to YES, I hope that any of my readers who are students in U.S.A. universities will seriously considered applying for assistance to study in Qatar through the Gilman Program. When I left Miami, there were numerous students who asked where to find help in funding study abroad in the middle east. I had no answer then but now I do! Give it a look and then make your reservations.

Friday, May 02, 2008

Culture

I'm trying to integrate three experiences from this last week. I've spun them in my own mind as examples of culture but I'm still working through how I relate to each. Perhaps I'll make the connections, perhaps you'll see what I can't, or at least I'll have the opportunity to share three great encounters - one with an artist/performer, one with a scholarship donor, and one with my staff colleagues.

We hosted Guy Manoukian in Doha last week. Our Faculty and Student Life Coordinator brought Guy (pronounced like "Gee") in as an end-of-the-year celebration and opportunity to continue to build community among our faculty and staff. Guy is a Lebanese/Armenian "world music" performer. I had never heard his music before but was quickly drawn into his performance. He started with relatively "safe" and passive music and then gradually built to a driving fusion jazz performance that incorporated many styles, but most notably the sounds, instruments, and feel of Lebanon and Armenia. By chance, Guy sent an e-mail to our Coordinator and copied it to me. I enjoyed his performance so much that I messaged back, sharing the fact that I'm an amateur pianist myself. I also posed a question about his style; while I was listening I could have sworn that I heard the influences of Michel Camillo, a South American jazz pianist and composer. Amazing as it might seem, Guy responded in his next message, "Spot on! You got me." I was utterly amazed that I heard the connection across two continents and two very different styles of music to find the artistic similarity of these two musicians. Guy is extraordinary; if you want some very fun and different music for your next dinner party, buy one of his CDs and give it a try!

The second encounter was with a man whose name I will not reveal. He is an individual who is very prominent in Qatar and has made considerable wealth through real estate. I've heard others say that he owns much of the property along the Doha Coniche (the rapidly developing area of downtown - picture to right). I met him in an interview of students who were being considered as potential recipients for a scholarship in his father's name. The first thing I did was thank him for his support of students. His response - "This is my joy, my pleasure, and my fulfillment. It is but a drop in the ocean." The bravado appeared a little over the top but I soon realized that he was completely sincere. The cultural part of this story, other than the depth of commitment this man has to Qatar, was a great surprise. The typical way Arabs are characterized is subtle, non-confrontive, and guarded in their communication. To my incredible surprise, the interviews with students unfolded in ways that I could never have imagined. The man was direct, almost to a fault, and a little scary at times. He even told one of the candidates to leave the room and wait for a recall because he wasn't impressed with her conviction. He later drew her back in, told her that she had another chance, and then proceeded to treat her with the tenderness of a father. He was challenging her to give everything of herself and not to hold back on the beliefs she had as a talented young woman. Watching this generous man work with students to tease their potential to the surface was amazing and not an encounter I'll soon forget. And, by the way, the stereotypical cultural approach in this case was completely outside of what I expected.

The third encounter was with several of my colleagues who have begun a "Take Away" lunch where we talk about professional issues, reading, etc. (By the way, "take away" is our language for "carry out" or delivered lunch.) We were talking about an article that described an institution that had struggled with years of budget reductions, the likes of which resulted in a sense of hopelessness and dejection. The author of the piece described the deep connections that staff made through the process of identifying commitments they would make to each other as they sought to create a better climate on their campus. As we talked about this example, we started exploring the commitments we could make to each other during the rapid changes we are experiencing.

During the "Take Away," one of our Qatari female colleagues spoke of feeling that some of the ex-pat staff in the Education City branches treat her differently because she is covered; covered means wearing an abaya (the black overgarment) and hijab (the veil that covers her hair). This revelation, the first I've heard directly from an Arab colleague, took us into a much deeper conversation about the changes that are underway in Qatar. It was very clear that our Qatari colleagues have a deep desire to fully engage but that there are dynamics that make full inclusion and participation difficult.

Later on in the afternoon, one of my ex-pat colleagues came to my office to express that the revelation about cultural change had helped her understand another person with whom she'd talked earlier in the week. We sat in my office in silence, as we both realized that development doesn't occur, in students or in culture, unless there is unconditional affirmation that makes taking the risk surmountable. I hadn't realized that student development principles that describe the difficulty of developmental change relate so closely to the dynamics of adapting one's culture. Our Arab colleague was committed to doing what it takes to be contemporary and building a future for herself and others, but the process of change is no less difficult than it is for a young adult in a difficult developmental transition. In both cases, the process requires understanding and affirmation. That my colleague's abaya and hijab would be an impediment to cross-cultural communication represents ex-pat discomfort, not that of our Arab colleagues. The abaya and hijab are simply statements of modesty and respect in Islam. What an irony that something intended to foster respect would result in a barrier for others who don't understand.

As I think of these three encounters, I'm not sure that there is a relationship, other than the fact that each reflects an encounter with one's culture. I love being able to have these kinds of experiences and I love being with others as we discover the importance of culture, of us as human beings, and of the possibilities that lie ahead as we continue to know each other more deeply.